The Joy of a Good Bottom Turn

Following a successful drop, whether it be on a 2-3 foot wave or 10’+ wave, the bottom turn sets the stage for what comes next. The wave will determine that for the most part, but at least you can try to dance with it, and the bottom turn helps match its rhythm. Sometimes the lines between the drop and the bottom turn are blurred. No doubt you’ve seen this from an experienced surfer, paddling at an angle, catching the wave and highlining the drop. This maneuver allowing them to angle down the line and race a quick wall of water that threatens to close out.  That tiny shuffle of standing up, leaning into the toes and quickly back to the heels in a very compact space near the lip. Like being thrown right into a barn yard dosey doe. Takes some practice, but definitely doable, and fun.

I love the feeling of a long, drawn out bottom turn on a head high plus wave. My mind is focused on making the drop, but immediately I transition to visualizing the wall of water as the wave stands up, and prepares to break. Looking ahead, I start to dig into my heels (as pictured above) or toes, and balance how much pressure I apply based on what the wave is signaling. Do I need to rush the next step, or can I take my time? Will it close out? Is someone dropping in on me? Is the next move a top turn, cut back, fins out vertical hit? All of this happens in an instant based on experience, and skill, which come with repetition.

Transitioning from the bottom turn, my weight shifts to be more evenly distributed over my entire foot. A feeling of balance. Depending on my options, I’ll take a longer route as I climb towards the lip and drive hard into my toes for a smooth carve back down the face. Or, I’ll take my weight off the front foot as I near the lip, and time my turn to push the tail and fins against the lip, rotating quickly to angle back down the face in a tight arcing hit (hopefully the fins come out). The timing of a turn like this can produce a big fan of spray if done right, and the bottom turn is crucial to set that up.

A good bottom turn establishes your next move. It’s a feeling of flight and opportunity after dropping in. It’s exciting and crucial to being in rhythm with the wave. In the photo above, and the sequence that follows, I’m feeling that joy of speed and transition to what comes next.

This session was a memorable one for me, thanks in large part to meeting cool people in the water. It was a cold, fall session, after work. I wasn’t too eager to put on my wetsuit and paddle out, but I’m glad I did. I owe a big push to my partner, Sarah. Halfway through the session I noticed a water photographer on the middle/inside. He was focusing his lens at various waves and surfers near me. On the paddle back out I decided I’d say hi and ask him if he got any shots of us. He was super nice, and thought that he did snap a few.  He told me his Instagram and I repeated that over and over in my head until I went in. As soon as I got to the car I looked him up and sent a message. We connected, I offered to venmo him (not that he asked), and now I have some unique photos I very rarely get! Getting out of my routine of not saying anything led to a nice chat, and some great photos I otherwise would not have. I’m happy I spoke up, and grateful that it was well received. It’s worth chatting up your local surf photographer!